(Original post date: May 1, 2022)
One of Netflix’s Top 10 Most Watched this past week, is a controversial documentary titled, “White Hot: The Rise and Fall of Abercrombie & Fitch.” A definite must see for those who have ever questioned the moral ethics of the once clothing apparel juggernaut. As a teenager I was no different than my peers. I was a part of this so-called “mall culture” where teens would spend all their free time just hanging out at the mall, it was the COOL thing to do! So, amid acting a fool with friends while mindlessly roaming the walkways of the mall, there was always this one clothing store where me and my friends would at first hesitate to go inside, but once we entered the front door, we were often hit with this overwhelming feeling that we didn’t belong and that we weren’t welcomed. I wish I could go back in time and explain to my immature 15-year-old self that this feeling you are experiencing is not an exaggeration, but only the beginning of unapologetic discrimination. Abercrombie & Fitch had proven that it was profitable in being extremely exclusive.
Your ugly, go away!
Job interviews are stressful! When you are being interviewed for a position, you expect to be judged based on your personality, your work ethics and experience. How about being considered for a position which relies on how attractive you are? This is how former CEO Mike Jeffries ran his Abercrombie & Fitch stores for years. It was not a suggestion; it was an absolute requirement! As an applicant you had to possess a certain “look” to even be considered for hiring. Now of course a manager would interview qualified applicants, but if they deemed you unattractive, you were not offered a position even if you were the most qualified applicant. Abercrombie & Fitch standard of attractiveness primarily focused on young good-looking white college age students, especially males who were physically fit. This meant that an applicant could be considered unattractive solely on the color of their skin. Speaking of people of color… minorities who were offered a position at Abercrombie & Fitch were exceedingly rare and would often find themselves working at the BACK of the store, being given fewer work hours than their white coworkers. In theory, this hiring practice is illegal but at times can be hard to prove because in most cases employers are good at covering up to make it look as if they are not actively discriminating.
Homoeroticism
According to the (Urban Dictionary) Homoeroticism – is the sexual attraction that exists between members of the same sex. It is not necessarily gay; rather it exists as a tension between heterosexual norms and expectations and natural attraction between two members of the same gender. Years ago Abercrombie & Fitch campaign ads, advertising posters and catalogs were filled with pictures of half-naked young men engaging in physical activity that often looked like inappropriate touching. The topic of homo erotica would periodically appear in the media as the former CEO Mike Jeffries’s sexuality was repeatedly the subject of hot discussions. Being the private individual that he was, these allegations were not denied or confirmed. However, considering that the company was built around sex appeal (showing intimate interactions between heterosexual couples) and borderline X-rated encounters between male models, to the trained eye the emphasis of homoeroticism is more than just pure coincidence.
All About being Exclusive!
Just like the nerdy kid who is never invited to a cool party. Exclusiveness has always been ingrained in American culture. The idea that certain people are better than others, dates far back in American history, Abercrombie & Fitch is no different. In fact, the former CEO Mike Jeffries’ formula for success was to combine the heritage of Abercrombie with elitism (catering to the elite and privileged), combined with sexual imagery and exclusivity equaling big profit. The Abercrombie & Fitch consumer drove a jeep and owned a golden retriever, he/she was a college student who maintained the preppy look while turning up their noses to everyone else. This concept of exclusion was not limited to just consumers, Abercrombie & Fitch store associates were to follow strict guidelines according to the company's motto. The Look: Exhibiting the A&F look is a tremendous part at the A&F stores. We are selling an experience for our customers, an atmosphere that people want to experience repeatedly. These guidelines included having a neatly combed classic hairstyle, absolutely No Dreadlocks! Gold chains for men was unacceptable, while women’s jewelry had to be simple and classic. The problem with exclusiveness is that it often invokes racial discrimination. Minority employees did not exactly fit “the look” of Abercrombie & Fitch and because of this, employees of color were given fewer work hours or forced to work in the back, so to be unseen by customers. The unethical business practices brought a discrimination lawsuit at the front door of Abercrombie & Fitch. But, in all honesty, Will this prevent corporations from being exclusive?
Gotta Love those Graphic Tees, right?... Not!
Remember when I mentioned that exclusiveness often invokes racial discrimination? Well, Abercrombie & Fitch pushed a few buttons with their graphic tees. These t-shirts were so inappropriate and offensive to other people’s culture, that it would have made Adolf Hitler rollover and shed a tear of joy in his grave. How about that “Juan more for the road” or “Wong Brothers two wongs can make it white” t-shirt? This was blatant racism at its best, and to no surprise these tees were selling like ‘hotcakes’ thanks to college aged/teen consumers. Of course, the individuals who wore these graphic tees, more than likely never had to deal with the effects of racism head-on. A&F issued an apology for their offensive tees, but only after an uproar of protests occurred. Big companies do this sort of thing ALL the time! They are aware of business practices or products that their selling can potentially be offensive to others, but still are willing to see how far they can push boundaries…only if angry protests transpire, is when the company issues an apology. It is like the kid with his hand in the cookie jar. Mom tells little Johnny not to put his hand in the cookie jar, little Johnny waits until mom is not looking and sure enough his hand is in the cookie jar. One day mom catches little Johnny with his hand in the cookie jar, little Johnny apologized to mom, but ONLY after he had been caught with his hands in the cookie jar. "See where I am going with this?!"
Things are changing!
And the word for today is... Inclusive. New CEO Fran Horowitz took over and turned the company upside down (in a clever way of course). Gone are the days of body shaming. Now Abercrombie & Fitch models include plus size, more diversity and representation of all age groups. There is also a change within the stores, employees are expected to be more attentive instead of aloof and distant. Hopefully, these changes will make the brand all the better and businesses across the nation will follow by example. To finish this writing on an interesting note, in reference to the end of the documentary the interviewee summed up the problematic history of A&F. Woman interviewed: “It was a culture that defined beauty as thin and white and young, and it was a culture that was very happy to exclude people.” The Producer: “And so, have we solved that now?” Woman interviewed: [laughs] “No.”
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